Already turning heads and feet, Gucci’s daring rebirth under new creative lead Demna Gvasalia. Gucci is seeing real evidence that its bet may be paying off within days of debuting its first collection for the historic house.
Balenciaga by Demna unveiled a lookbook called Offering a cinematic, archetype-driven preview of his dream. Under a ‘see-now, buy-now’ model, certain pieces from the debut were made available immediately in flagship stores, a deviation from the customary months-ahead launch. This faster strategy seems to be paying off. The U.S. saw an increase in foot traffic at key stores. Rodeo Drive outlet of Gucci in Los Angeles noted a rise of 53% in visits week-on-week, but the Wooster Street location in New York saw a 19 per cent rise.
Analysts view the spike as an initial indication that consumer interest could be reflected in store visits. Still, the stakes are great. Having seen a 25 per cent yearly income loss, Gucci, a major cornerstone of parent company Kering, has sparked desperate appeals for recovery. Some observers think Demna’s first action is more about regaining momentum: revitalize the story of the brand, connect with younger customers, and reignite demand than about daring reinvention.
Industry leaders have different opinions. Some applaud Demna’s dramatic approach and reintroduction of Gucci’s trademark motifs, such as the Bamboo bag and Horsebit loafer, impregnated with his own maximalist edge. Others warn that showmanship and buzz have to demonstrate their value in sustained expansion and conversions. A luxury-market consultant from China said that the campaign has helped boost discussability.
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However, conversion into sales still needs to be proven. The next test for Gucci comes in full force: wider distribution, seasonal collections , and whether a revitalized image is sufficient to entice back dropping luxury customers. Although the early indications are quite positive, the reality of retail is still awaited.